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The Autumn Run, October 2003picture of a salmon swimming up Dulnain Falls

 

Last October, after what had been an exceptionally dry summer here on Speyside, we at last had some real rain. The river Spey and its tributaries flowed once more with life as autumn took a grip on the Highlands. With a two and a half foot flood on the Spey, fish that had been held up all summer, made there final upstream dash to the spawning grounds. On the Spey there was little evidence to show that fish were moving in numbers, the season having ended on the 30th of September, there were no anglers out and about to plumb the depths of the river and few fish were showing.

So it was that I decided to stroll up to the Dulnain Falls to see if fish were moving through. I stood for 10 minutes admiring the rush of white water cascading over the falls but saw nothing of the salmon I sought. A mink, oblivious to my presences, trotted past no more than a few feet from me, distracted no doubt by the smell of fresh fish.

Autumnal air filled my lungs with the sweet brambly aroma of newly shed leaves. A slight chill dampness in the air contrasted with the diminished warmth of the autumn sun. The roar of the raging falls, the sights and sounds of the river and its surrounds had their soporific effect upon me, home and a warm fire beckoned. As I turned to wander home I caught a fleeting glimpse of a fish as it rolled in the surging white water. I stopped and looked again, this time to the side of the falls, to runnels that had been bone dry just a few days before.  Picture two salmon spawning at Broomhill on the river Spey

What I saw became for me the centre piece of a daily ritual, I saw salmon run the falls, hundreds of salmon, sea trout, big fish, small fish, truly enormous fish! Fish swam through water that was seemingly impossible to navigate, white and boulder strewn. I saw them as they bobbled to the surface of the foaming torrent, I saw them as they failed and were swept unceremoniously back to the lower falls pool. I saw them as they succeeded in there task, tails beating ten to the dozen as they outrageously expended energy to surmount the crashing falls, oblivious to the dangers, focused on the single objective of procreation and the continuance of their species.

I have taken these creatures from time to time, no doubt I will do so in the future for they are exceptional eating for both man and mink. The two weeks Picture Dulnain falls in spateI spent visiting the falls every day to watch in wonder did however further alter my perspective of a creature I already admire, indeed love. The endeavours of the salmon are an object lesson in determination to overcome any obstacle, humbling to us mortal men who hold our comforts so dearly. Death is the only impediment to the progress of these magnificent fish; they know no fear as the drive through the surging spume.

Fish crashed onto dry land at my feet, tails rattling at the unyielding rocks, eyes ablaze with the will to progress. Fish lay in small pools exhausted, recovering their strength, re-energising their determination to surmount the falls. I could see them as they slowly came to the point of recovery where they would steel themselves to try again, swimming slowly as they explored avenues upwards. Then suddenly the rush as they charged at the full flow of the river, driving with all of their will to succeed. Day by day, in their hundreds, they won through and soon they were all gone. 

Further up stream I found them again in the gravel beds cutting redds, depositing eggs and milt to secure the future for them and for us. Admirably awesome creatures, worthy of our respect and consideration. There lives should not be taken lightly or greedily.

If you can, please take the time in autumn to observe the salmon run to their spawning redds. You will find yourself, like I did, urging them on, cheering them to success. Next season you will have a new respect for the fish, finding it easy to play your part in conservation. You will have no hesitation when returning fish you do not need, taking in moderation that which is suitable and returning that which is necessary for the future. Our mortal efforts in the conservation the salmon pale into insignificance by when comparison with  the total commitment these incredible creature have to the preservation of their species.

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